In praise of artichokes

During the all too brief artichoke season, I love to eat these thorny thistles steamed and dipped in a sauce of butter, lemon, garlic and mustard. It's fair to say that anything eaten with such a sauce is worth rolling around in, but with an artichoke, it's nothing short of a religious experience.

And then - because the world is cruel and the gods are against us - the season ends and we are left with rubbery specimens that cost three dollars a piece.

Which is why I take my artichoke in liquid form when the seasons don't cooperate.

Cynar. Made from artichokes by those clever Italians. If that sounds revolting and vile, try it on the rocks with a generous wedge of lemon. So delicious.