Gonder Diary: Solitude and the Impossibility of Loneliness

In Gonder, a city of 17th century castles and royal baths, I wade ankle deep through muddy streets, exploring flooded neighborhoods. The way is full of children. They run to me, grab my hands, hug my legs, bring me to their ramshackle houses for tea and popcorn.



Their mothers generously offer to find me an Ethiopian husband to accompany me on my trip. I laugh, telling them that I am happy to be alone, and in that moment, I truly believe it.

At the local market, the stalls overflow with barrels of sweet-smelling spices used in the preparation of the Ethiopian coffee ceremony. There are onions and chickens and plastic shoes.











My camera attracts more children until I become a soggy, muddy Pied Piper. “YouyouyouyouYOU!” they exclaim, guiding me through a labyrinth of shady passages. Finally, we stop at a bakery where I order bread for my entourage. More children join, and I watch as they carefully divide the bread among themselves, sharing until every child has a piece.