I am about to take a trip. In a burst of enthusiasm, I decided that a good adventure on my own would get my mind off of the aforementioned boy drama and replace the usual dross rattling inside my head with improving thoughts. I book my ticket. Romantic visions of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and coffee-scented streets of Harar take hold. I am a woman of action! I am Lawrence of Arabia – Ethiopian style! Yeah, dawg!
I read the guidebook. I scour the New York Times. I am determined to be totally prepared and culturally aware.
It’s two days before lift-off and I realize that I am out of my fucking gourd.
- “Bring flea powder – and lots of it.”
- “The only hotel in town is a glorified brothel.”
- “Lock up your shoes at night. Hyenas gather outside bedroom windows.”
- “There is one ATM in the entire country.”
- “Ethiopian soldiers gang-rape women, burn down huts and kill civilians at will.”
And then, when it couldn’t get worse, this:
- “Visiting the monasteries requires sturdy shoes and a good head lamp.”
Let me get one thing straight: I am not a person who wears sturdy shoes. I have rarely - if ever - donned snow boots, rain boots, hiking boots, proper athletic shoes, navy flats or any other kind of sensible footwear. It should be a given, then, that I am not a person with a head lamp. I am not even sure what a head lamp is, but suspect it has something to do with spelunking – an unpleasant activity involving uncomfortable proximity to other people’s asses.
Nevertheless, I am convinced that I Can Do This. My friend Sarah accompanies me to supervise the shopping expedition.
P: What do you think about these?
S: Those are gold.
P: Yeah! And they’re flat!
S: You are going to wear strappy gold sandals backpacking through Ethiopia?
P: Yes! Gold is a neutral!
S: No. [Pries gold Marc Jacob sandals from my hands]
P: Jeez. These are cute – what about these?
S: Persephone, those have skulls and safety pins all over them. You are going to freak people out. Look at these – these are good.
P: But those are murder weapons. I am not planning to bludgeon anyone about the head.
S: They’re Clarks – they’re good for walking.
P: What am I, EIGHTY? Oh my God, they hurt me - they hurt my very soul.
Despite my certainty that these shoes will cause widespread depression throughout the land, I buy them, thinking that in a pinch, I can use them in self-defense against marauding Ethiopian warlords.
Image: Dennis Stock, Magnum Photos